Großes Gewächs
A classification in Germany to denote wine coming from top quality single vineyards, Grosses Gewächs are dry wines that come from Grosse Lage sites. Grosse Lage, meaning “great site” is the German version of Grand Cru vineyards in France. Grosses Gewächs, meaning “great growth”, are additionally prestigious due to the dry vinification style. These classifications only exist within the voluntary and selective VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikats und Qualitätsweinguter = the German Association of Special Quality Wine and Quality Wine Estates). This classification came into existence in 2001. Previously, the Rheingau region had used Erstes Gewächs as their top quality level, which them became Grosses Gewächs after the VPD introduced the new classification system.
That’s not to say those who are not members of this association can’t possess top quality vineyards and proceed to produce dry wines from them, they just don’t get the GG stamp on the label. To learn more about the Grosse Lage requirements – yields, allowed grapes varieties, etc. – please visit the VDP website here: http://www.vdp.de/en/vdp/klassifikation/the-refined-vdpclassification/vdpgrosse-lage/.
Tasting
With 7 bottles of GG-quality wine from the Rheingau, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen to taste, ranging from 2012-2015, a great spectrum of colours, aromas, and flavours within the GG classification could really be understood.
2014 Balthasar Ress, Berg Rottland, Rheingau
With a classic Rheingau Riesling green apple aroma and notes of petrol already showing through, this GG shows early promise – and perhaps some early oxidization. The citrus presents more as pineapple, and due to some mild oak treatment, a full mouth creamy feel transforms into a caramel aftertaste.
2013 Fendel, Kirchenpfand, Rheingau
This was the only disappointment of the tasting. An off-putting chemical aroma, inducing memories of summers spent by chlorine pools, first attacks the senses. Rotten peach and pear primary aromas transform into a flat, unimpressive dead end. It is too sour and too creamy all at the same time.
2013 Leitz, Berg Roseneck, Rheingau
This wine is no fruit bomb. But it doesn’t have to be! Leitz’s GG stands out by it’s thick minerality, terroir-focus, juicy concentration, and delicate mouthfeel. This wine is all about the palate. With a hit of acidity in the back of the jaw, this wines makes me salivate. Mmmmmm. This was the fan favourite amongst the tasters.
2012 August Kesseler, Berg Roseneck, Rheingau
Two Berg Roseneck GGs in a row! This should be interesting! This one presents the most golden colour so far in the tasting. On the non-fruit side, this GG has a subtle spontaneous yeast stink, a small touch of petrol, some faint CO2, hints of cedar, and a buttery, toasted caramel flavour. Looking into the fruits and you can find apples, canned peach, canned pear, and citrus. Definitely a winning GG!
2012 Peter Jakob Kühn, Doonsberg, Rheingau
Even more golden in colour than the Kesseler GG, this wine has a overly prominent buttery, caramel nose with little fruit to balance it out. Smelling and tasting like a old wooden cabinet, it is very oaky. These harsh aspects do eventually fade into a nice toasty vanilla aftertaste.
2012 Dreissigacker, Aulerde, Rheinhessen
While technically not a GG as Dreissigacker is not part of the VDP, Aulerde is a top quality vineyard in Rheinhessen. Coming from Rheinhessen, in contrast to the previous GGs from the Rheingau, this wine is, unsurprisingly, less acidic, yet maintains a marvelous crispness. It has a mild sulfur stink and shows complex fruit and citrus flavours of bruised fruit, and a note of caramel brioche.
2012 A. Christmann, Idig, Pfalz
This wine has a lot of different flavours going on. A fruit bomb through and through, peach and overripe banana are the stars of this wine. But mixed with petrol aromas and heavy toasted caramel, it is unintegrated and unbalanced. Too much of everything. Maybe in a few more years it will blend together in to wonderfully complex and fascinating GG.
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